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Cooking up a future in Lewisporte

Coincidences collide to serve up opportunity for Denise Snow

Denise Snow at her seaside business in Lewisporte.
Denise Snow at her seaside business in Lewisporte. - Barbara Dean-Simmons

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LEWISPORTE, N.L. — When Denise Snow completed the first stage of her dream to be a chef — graduating from culinary school — she celebrated by getting a tattoo on her left forearm.

It features a chef’s hat with kitchen utensils, surrounded by dancing flames — an artistic flambé.

That was 30 years ago.

Snow, who hails from Embree, went off to Ontario for culinary story and stayed to pursue her career as a chef. Her mother and brother followed her to Ontario, where she worked in the hotel business, specifically in fine dining.

“But I always wanted to come back home,” said Snow, with an engaging smile.

So it was that a few months ago, Snow, her mother and brother made the move back to Embree. Snow had no solid plans for work, except an idea of perhaps starting a restaurant to introduce fine dining to the area.

Then kismet— that phenomenon of being in the right place at the right time — offered her an opportunity to get back into the business of food. Snow learned the little take-out truck on the waterfront in Lewisporte, right next to the marina, was being sold.

It had been operating for three years and the owners had decided to move on.

Snow bought it.

“I wanted something to keep me busy, and this just happened,” she said.

It may not be the fine dining plan — although that idea is still swimming around in her head — but her menu, which includes cod, squid, poutine and the usual take-out fare of burgers and fries, is drawing customers.

On this sunny Wednesday, with a breeze blowing off the ocean to provide relief from the 30-degree heatwave, two motorcycles are parked alongside Snow’s little white trailer with the red trim. Their riders exchange conversation, in French, over their dinner of fish and chips.

Another car pulls up. Two ladies get out and head up to the take-out window.

“What kind of batter to you use on your squid?” one asks.

“It’s my own recipe,” replies Snow, explaining how it’s a mixture of flour, pepper and other spices.

So far, in her first month of operation, Snow says business has been good.

The redhead smiles often, obviously happy to be back home and doing what she loves, and looking forward to what will likely be a very busy weekend in mid-August when crowds come to Lewisporte for the Mussel Bed Soiree.

As for the fine dining, that may become a reality as Snow firms up her business footing after being away for so many years.

For now, though, she is just happy that her dream of coming back home to Embree, and this opportunity to start a business, coincided perfectly.

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